Some days here in Nepal are like looking into a
collide-a-scope. As you turn the barrel experiences tumble across your vision. Each event quite unexpected but together they have links which form the
rich pattern of life.
13.06.2015
6.30 am, whilst on my morning run, I was unaware that what lay ahead was a day filled with strange unconnected happenings that would meld into a precious unforgettable tapestry of memories. As I rounded a street corner a collection
of wheelchairs users blocked the way. This group were watching a wheel chair
basketball tournament and I enjoyed the fun for a few moments as team Bouddha, in
blue, went on to beat the local rivals. I now stay in the city district, Jawalakel, where the Chinese Red Cross have made a good tented provision for wheel chair using citizens, Here their needs can be best met and the risks of being trapped in a collapsing building are minimised.
Having recovered from a couple of pedal power near misses, I found myself later that morning on route to my favourite local town,
Bungamati. Again my path was blocked, not by sporting activities but instead by the ‘Chariot Festival'. Due to earthquake shock waves the wheels on this mobile mini Blackpool Tower had ground to a halt halfway to its
city destination. Undeterred by the precipitous angle the tower now assumed,
worshipers still performed their ‘pujaa’ and musical ceremonies. One devotee
who seemed to have had an operation to remove all his sense of self-preservation, clambered to the apex and fixed yet another Buddhist flag. This month long Newari festival involves both Hindus and Buddhists who worship the Assam god Machhendra Nath. I felt some affinity with proceedings since the god should bring farmers good rains and harvest.
|
The Red Machhendra Chariot and yes that is a man on the top!! |
|
Candles are lit accompanied by traditional music. |
|
Worship continues unabated. |
Half an hour later I am relaxing with a khalo chiyaa (black
tea), after having picked up some shirts from a Bungamati tailor, when I see an old
friend Juju Man Shrestha. Some weeks before the quake I had been looking for a
craftsman to make a wooden box for Jude’s birthday. Juju had kindly found me
a workshop, rather than use his own since their main line of work seemed to be
carved furniture and house fittings. I was eager to discover how his life had
changed following recent dramatic events.
All of my fears were confirmed as he described the tragic,
but far too common, outcomes of that fateful earthquake day.
|
Juju's mother, looking a little weary but she was very welcoming. |
|
Not sure who looks most hard bitten! It is the natural Nepali pose not to smile, whatever the underlying emotion . I think my emotion is perhaps showing through. as we sit on the step of the closed workshop. |
His house, along
with those of his extended family, was destroyed. Being constructed using traditional mud and brick techniques they offered little
resistance to shock waves. Along with the houses nearly all of the 300 carving
workshops in the town had been ruined. Demand for their craft work had collapsed
along with the tourist trade, and 15 or so remaining workshops were also
finding it difficult to source camphor, the wood they traditionally use. In the
wards that make up the Bungamati VDC (
Village Development Committee) there had been 1045 houses destroyed, but
fortunately due to the midday timing of the disaster, the loss of life had been
limited to 7. Most people were out in the fields having eaten daal bhaat. Had the shock struck at night there could have untold misery for this community.
|
Juju's home that was four floors. For safety he knocked the top two down, and judging by the cracking the remainder will have to go as well. |
|
Two women, and their dog, do a demolition job. |
|
Machhe Narayan Shrestha outside his home, which displays some of his carved screens. |
|
Madan Bhakta and Surja Laxmi Maharjan clear rubble from the first floor of their house in search of woodcarving tools and completed work. |
|
Still neighbours despite everything. |
Juju was eager to show me his new home, which is a tent
shared by 15 others. It is a cliché to say that he seemed not to be down-hearted
but all his family radiated a positive attitude and told me of their plans to recover
from there predicament. Juju is a wood carver
and along with most of his close relations is now jobless, but he has work to
do as a subsistence farmer. Planting rice and cultivating crops is a group
activity, to which the whole community subscribe, with little money changing
hands.
|
The new family home, for 15 people. |
|
Inside is just as you might expect,......very simple, just bedding. |
Speaking to the whole family group I discover they have plans to rebuild their
traditional homes, and in Juju’s case open a home stay once the tourist trade
has recovered. For me, knowing that no one has the luxury of house
insurance, and that the combined Government and donor support will not run to a fraction of the
cost of a rebuild, I can only feel a sense of huge concern.
|
We ate as they told me their story, and their plan for recovery. |
As I walked home Juju’s case weighed heavily on my mind. Not
only had he lost his house but also his job. Some of my work at my partner organisation, Samarth, has been involved in supporting nearly 5000
households with an emergency intervention that provides feed support for their
beleaguered cattle. The aim is to maintain a source of family income through milk sales. These are small holder farmers whose immediate emergency requirements of shelter have been met and Samarth is trying to support their future livelihoods. We have been very careful to use the existing
market chains to provide the feed in such a way that other livelihoods are
not disrupted or even destroyed by the intervention. This intervention will roll out into very remote badly affected districts which already have established milk collecting cooperative structures in place.
|
A Danish Aid organisation is erecting some other temporary dwellings. |
|
Another option, split bamboo housing. |
Yet another unexpected experience in the cascading
collide-a-scope of events awaited me before arriving home. On the same corner
where earlier in the day I’d witnessed basketball, the equivalent of a Nepali tree
surgeon was at work. This time instead of a trailer to remove scrub and brash,
as we would at home, the method of transport was by elephant. As branches were
loaded onto her broad shoulders the old female stood quietly by, munching on a few stray
twigs. As friends have often said –‘we are certainly experiencing an amazing gap
year!
|
What a way to move scrub and brush. How about it Nick and Chris? |
’
My Dad was 89 that day and he sounded full of beans as we
chatted on the phone. Jude and I will be travelling back to the UK for the
month of July to be with our family. In the back of my mind
is a persisting niggle that for the Newari families I have recently met there is
no such escape. The long awaited PDNA (Post Disaster Needs Assessments) will appear in the next few days. These will form the basis by which the big
donors place their aid. I hope some support will reach Juju and his fellow community members in Bungamati.
Hi Simon & Judith. It has been great you have allowed me share in some small part your amazing gap year through your blog. Thank you!
ReplyDeleteJim L