Settling in to our Besishahar home

We arrived in Besishahar, Lamjung on September 10^th after a 7 hour drive from Kathmandu. We were to stay in a hotel, best in town, possibly 1 or 2 stars, so no complaints. Except that we are not keen on hotels! We soon discovered the very simple and friendly New Gurung Fast Food café, just a few doors down. Our local!  On the second visit we mentioned that we were looking for somewhere to stay. Well that was enough for things to start rolling. The owner’s 9 year old nephew pricked up his ears, spoke to his uncle and asked us to come with him while the noodles were cooking. We followed him down a back lane towards an extraordinary house, black and white make-believe bricks with orange surrounds and Buddhist flags flying high above on the 4^th floor.

 

 

We went up to the 2^nd and Roshaln let  us in. For Nepal this was palatial, 4 rooms including a big kitchen with a toilet (European) and shower rooms on the stairway landing. Not our colour, a deep dusky pink, rather tired looking but we wanted to know more.

 We climbed the stairs to the 4^th floor where there is a Buddhist Gumba (temple)! Back to the noodles and Nimanta arrived, Roshan’s 12 year old sister. Her English is great and her manner delightful. She told us more. The house is owned by the local Buddhist priest, the Dare (bearded) Lama (a well-known local character with a catchy nickname to suit), with family on the 3^rd floor and other families on the 1^st and basement. We arranged a meeting with Mrs Dare Lama for the following day and asked Raj, my project manager, and Nimanta to join us and help with details.

Everyone was keen, especially Simon, and we all felt that this family would be good and honest landlords. They agreed to repaint and clean and it would be ready in 2 days, we could help if we wanted! Sadly we had a long walk ahead to a school on the hill, a 2 day excursion, which gave us a let out! On our return it was nearly ready, the electrician was busy, the curtains had been washed, walls painted (sadly the same colour) and even the Dare Lama and a young monk were busy mending the curtain rails. On Wednesday Raj came again and papers where signed. We had our new home.

 

We had inherited a few bits from my predecessor which we moved local style. We borrowed a flatbed tricycle which we had fun trying to cycle. Sadly it was soon push only, after I had a quick ride on the back, as the chain kept falling off. This was loaded up and we proceeded to push it through the town. This created enormous interest but no offers of help even while we slogged up the hill, beads of sweat in evidence!

By Friday we were ready for a house warming party and invited all of my colleagues who accepted readily. We have already discovered that they love any excuse to meet socially and especially if there is food involved. Simon had ordered bits from our friendly café on the corner, no home cooking this time, which was all devoured in record time.

What is the flat like? Most of the floors are marble or cement, good in this hot climate, they dry in an instant. The kitchen has a marble work surface around 2 sides and a sink with cold running water (most of the time). We inherited a 2 ring gas camp stove, a plastic picnic table and chairs and even a small fridge from a previous volunteer. Luxuries that we weren’t expecting and anyone who lived in Nepal 30 years ago won’t believe our luck. Within a day we had bought 2 x 3 foot beds, the thought of a 4’ bed in this hot weather seemed impossibly cosy! We soon gathered a work table, 2 bookcases and a few other small bits.

 

Simon has been busy with DIY and has made a hanging shelf unit (inspired by our friend Caroline) and I have baked bread and flapjacks using an amazing “Miracle Oven” . This is known by the volunteer community and is what the name suggests. Pop on top of the gas ring and hey presto, an oven!

We also have a spare room in our new home so we can welcome visitors. This really is a beautiful place surrounded by wooded hills and glimpses of peaks of the Annapurna range. We hope to see some of you soon!

I would like to dedicate this posting to my sister-in-law, Mary Jane Ansell, who during her last week asked me for details of our house and daily life in Nepal which I sent her as a daily diary. She died on September 27th.